Saks, Neiman & Bergdorf Walk into a Boardroom… And Designers Walk Out?

Well, well, well. It looks like the luxury retail world just got itself a shiny new monopoly. Saks Fifth Avenue has officially absorbed Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman, and in true “we’re a business, not a charity” fashion, they’ve rolled out a thrilling new policy:

Vendors, congrats! You now get to wait 90 days to get paid.

Yes, you heard that right. Saks CEO Marc Metrick, in his infinite wisdom, has decided that if a brand wants the privilege of gracing the racks of Saks, Neiman Marcus, or Bergdorf Goodman, they better be ready to front all the costs for three months. What a steal! (For Saks, obviously. Not for the brands.)

What’s the Big Deal?

For anyone who doesn’t work in fashion, let me break this down:

1. A designer spends months (and a small fortune) sketching, sourcing, and producing a collection.

2. A major retailer (like Saks) places an order. Yay! Dreams are coming true!

3. The designer ships out the collection, hoping to finally make some money back.

4. Saks says, “Oh, by the way, we’ll pay you in 90 days.”

5. The designer, now financially drained, starts questioning all their life choices.

If you’re a global luxury powerhouse with billionaire investors, this might be annoying but manageable. But if you’re an emerging designer or a small independent brand, this is the equivalent of being handed a VIP ticket to bankruptcy.

How This Might Ruin, Oh, I Don’t Know… All the Cool New Brands?

•Cash Flow? Never Heard of Her. Designers need money now, not in three months when Saks maybe decides to pay them.

•Big Brands Win, Small Brands Lose. LVMH, Kering, and other fashion conglomerates will be fine. But young talent? Not so much.

•Saks & Co. Might Just Be Shooting Themselves in the Foot. You know what happens when you make it impossible for small brands to work with you? Your store starts looking… the same. Who needs fresh, exciting talent when you can just sell yet another iteration of the same designer handbag?

The Bigger Picture: Welcome to the Amazonification of Luxury

With this merger, Saks is basically trying to become the Amazon of high-end fashion. And sure, from a cold, corporate, bottom-line perspective, this is all very smart. Why pay brands sooner when you can make them sweat it out and keep your cash reserves full?

But let’s be honest—if all the independent designers disappear, Saks, Neiman Marcus, and Bergdorf Goodman won’t be selling luxury anymore. They’ll just be selling the same overpriced stuff you can buy anywhere.

So, what’s the solution? Maybe brands should focus on direct-to-consumer sales, pop-ups, and showrooms instead of waiting around for a check that arrives slower than a couture dress from a 12-month pre-order.

What do you think? Is this just luxury retail being luxury retail, or are we watching the slow death of what made these stores special? Let’s discuss.